Biking the Idaho Panhandle: The Route of the Hiawatha and the Trail of the Coeur d’Alene

Riding is about rhythm and flow. It’s the wind in your face and the challenge of hammering up a long hill. It’s the reward at the top and the thrill of a high-speed descent. Biking lets you come alive both in body and spirit. After awhile the bike disappears beneath you and you feel as if you’re suspended in midair. ~Gary Klein

In 2016, Herb and I enjoyed three days of biking in the Idaho Panhandle on our way to Washington for a family wedding. Noted for its stunning landscapes, quaint towns, and endless adventures, we knew very little about the area before arriving, and we wanted to explore and enjoy what it had to offer. We stopped in Wallace, ID and stayed at a local hotel called the Wallace Inn. Once we got off I-90, we felt like we had gone back in time with hints of the past in this 14-decade old town. Located in the Silver Valley of the Coeur d’Alene National Forest, the historic mining town is one of the world’s largest silver producers, contributes to the timber industry, and still has a small-town charm that embraces its history. Nostalgic saloons, railroad and mining museums, street-side dining, and locally owned shops and boutiques made for a hometown experience while we walked along the store fronts. Wallace has even caught the eye of Hollywood over the years when such movies as the 1980 “Heaven’s Gate” and the 1997 movie “Dante’s Peak” were filmed here.

In 2004, the mayor declared Wallace to be the “Center of the Universe.” His logic was that “if something can’t be disproven, it must be true.” A manhole cover in the center of town represents the exact spot. Of course, Herb and I took a picture to document we were there.

For all you food enthusiasts, some of the best Huckleberry-picking in the country is in the Pacific Northwest. Idaho, Washington, and Oregon are known for their huckleberry crops. We were not aware of this sweet, mild flavored berry prior to our visit, but it was an amazing discovery. The flavor is very similar to blueberries but even better. Huckleberry picking season is late-August to early-September, and it was in full swing while we were there. We were able to sample a number of huckleberry drinks and desserts which only left us longing for more. So delicious!!

In addition to its historic history, Wallace and the surrounding area offer year-round outdoor activities including hiking, fishing, ziplining, snowmobiling, skiing, fishing, but most notable is the hundreds of miles of trail paths. The Route of the Hiawatha and the Trail of the Coeur d’Alene are nationally recognized trails and are ranked as two of the top trails of the Rails to Trails Conservancy. After doing our research, we knew this was a stop we couldn’t pass up…and we are so glad we didn’t.

The Route of the Hiawatha

Once we arrived in Idaho, we headed to Kellogg, ID, just west of Wallace, to pick up our rented bikes at CDA Bike Co. A busy little bike rental company that provided us with our bikes, helmets, a bike rack, and maps to find our way around. It didn’t take us long to get started. We suited up and headed to the trailhead. The Route of the Hiawatha is a 15-mile bike or hike trail with ten train tunnels and seven steel trestles formerly used by the railroad system but now part of the Rails to Trails Conservancy. The route started with the 1.6-mile-long Taft Tunnel that starts in Montana and ends in Idaho. The tunnel is completely dark and all bikers are required to provide their own lighting. As an added bonus, the tunnel remains between 39-42 degrees year-round…rather chilly. The trail is mostly downhill with a nearly 1,500 ft elevation change, and a bus shuttle is available to transport you and your bike back up to the top, but Herb and I thought it was a better idea to bike our way back up the mountain.

The Trail of the Coeur d’Alene

The Trail of the Coeur d’Alene was a true destination that we couldn’t wait to explore. The 73-mile trail spans from Plummer, a few miles shy of the Washington border, and heads northeast along the Coeur d’Alene Lake and the Coeur d’Alene River until it reaches Mullan which is six miles west of the Montana border. Herb and I did not bike the ends of the trail but did still cover 72 miles in two days. The first day we did an out and back route. We started in Wallace to the east and road to Cataldo to the west and then road back to Wallace for a total of 45 miles. The views, sounds, and smells were amazing. You have to see it to believe it. Pictures don’t do it justice. We met a lot of friendly bikers and swapped some stories along the way.

On the second day on the trail, we rode from Cataldo (which is as far as we went the day before) to Harrison which was a 27-mile ride. It was a much flatter grade…only 20 ft grade rather than 600 ft the day before. Many miles along the trail were adjacent to private farmland, rolling prairies, and peaceful lakes and streams. The views were spectacular and amazing to see. When we got to Harrison, we spent time enjoying the shops and meandering through the small community. We had made prior arrangements with the bike rental company to deliver our car to Harrison, and then they picked up the bikes and took them back for us. It worked really slick.

Located at the southeast end of Coeur d’Alene Lake and the mouth of the Coeur d’Alene River sits the town of Harrison. Nestled along the water with the mountains as a backdrop, Harrison offers a lot of water sports, outdoor activities, and camping options. The trail took us right into the heart of the city where we saw a number of bikers taking a break and getting ready to go back out on the trail. Herb and I enjoyed walking the boardwalk and hanging out with the seagulls. A perfect way to end out biking tour of the Coeur d’Alene.