The Galápagos: Witnessing Evolution in Action
‘Situated in the Pacific Ocean some 1,000 km from the South American continent, these 19 islands and the surrounding marine reserve have been called a unique ‘living museum and showcase of evolution’. Located at the confluence of three ocean currents, the Galápagos are a ‘melting pot’ of marine species. Ongoing seismic and volcanic activity reflects the processes that formed the islands. These processes, together with the extreme isolation of the islands, led to the development of unusual animal life – such as the land iguana, the giant tortoise and the many types of finch – that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection following his visit in 1835.’ — World Heritage Center UNESCO website
In January 2022 I had the opportunity to visit the amazing Galápagos Islands with Dave, his daughter and her friend (ages 19 & 18, respectively). This was truly a trip of lifetime and is unlikely to be matched for the opportunity to view raw, untouched nature and witness evolution in action. A journey to this World Heritage UNESCO site off the coast of Ecuador may seem complicated to some, but with planning and a sense of adventure, it is actually very doable (see my Facts, Tips, and Links below) and well worth it. In fact, this trip with its active itinerary, experiences unlike any other, and disconnection from the outside world, makes for a wonderful in-the-moment family adventure!
Within the Galápagos National Park (which occupies 97% of the Islands), tourists must be accompanied by a certified naturalist guide and I applaud the Park’s decision to require this. Not only does this help preserve the integrity of this valuable ecosystem, it also enables us to learn and experience the lifecycle of the native/endemic plants and animals, birds and fish. It felt like the most awesome science class ever…a science class you truly hope will never end! While my travel companions and I were all adults, I believe this trip would be good for curious animal-loving travelers as young 13.
Here are some notes from our trip…
Within an hour of arriving at the airport on the island of Baltra, it was clear to me that we were in a very special place. As a small bus transferred us and our fellow travelers from the airport to our first stop at a ranch for lunch, our naturalist guide, Roberto, began pointing out the unique plant and wildlife around us. As we pulled into the ranch, the real excitement began. Suddenly we saw them: dozens of the famous giant tortoises roaming the grounds. Giant…as in up to 600 pounds! And up to 150 years old! We could hardly sit still long enough to eat lunch…we were ready to see these animals up close. What a fantastic start our adventure! And it only got better from there.
We chose to tour the Galápagos by boat and the Yacht Anahí cruise was an excellent choice. After our stop at the ranch, we traveled to Puerto Ayora where Yacht Anahí awaited our arrival. This 8-cabin, 16-passenger boat would be our all-inclusive home for the next 7 days while we explored. The 8-member crew + naturalist guide kept us safe, fed, and active throughout our journey. Each day, after breakfast, our adventures began. With 3 to 4 activities a day (hiking, snorkeling, swimming, kayaking, coastline tours), it almost sounded like too much. But the pace was manageable with breaks in between for lunch/snacks and siestas. And every activity offered an opportunity that you didn’t want to miss! We saw sea lions, land iguanas, marine iguanas*, penguins, Darwin finches, hawks, blue footed boobies, flightless cormorants*…the list goes on. And while snorkeling we saw gorgeous underwater plant life and hundreds of fish and marine life including starfish, octopus, sea turtles, puffer fish, and even sharks!
*species only found in the Galápagos
When we weren’t out exploring, we were very comfortable back on board. The top-level sun deck offered 360-degree views and chaise lounges for soaking in the sun or stargazing at night. The upper deck open-air bar area included a Jacuzzi tub, cushioned sofa-like benches, and tables that were perfect for sunset cocktails and after-dinner games. The main deck included the dining room and living room. One of my favorite onboard activities was sitting up front while the captain navigated to our next stop, taking in the ocean breeze and the horizon dotted with volcanic islands. Often frigate birds would fly in tandem above us as we cruised. And, on two occasions, pods of dolphins encircled the boat and swam along side us as we navigated (I’m talking 10-20 dolphins)! WOW! One of many memories that made this a trip that will never be forgotten.
Find an excerpt from my travel diary at the end of this article.
How to get there
From Philadelphia (PHL) we flew American Airlines to Miami (MIA) and a connecting flight to Guayaquil Ecuador (GYE). We chose to spend a day in this port city, the largest in Ecuador, so that we could relax and acclimate before flying on to the Galápagos.
In Guayaquil we stayed at the Grand Hotel Guayaquil which is a beautiful hotel in the heart of the historic district. From here it’s an easy walk to several interesting sites. On our ‘must see’ list: the catedral, the Malécon, the urban gondola, and the steps of Las Peñas.The hotel pool, sundeck, and rooftop open-air game lounge offered great places to relax after our day of exploring.
Yacht Anahí arranged our 2-hour flight on LATAM from Guayaquil to Galápagos Baltra Island (GPS); you can also choose to book this separately. Be sure to arrive at the GYE airport at least 2 hours before your flight to the Galápagos to complete the following required activities. These must be done before you checkin with your airline to receive your boarding pass.
- Confirmation of COVID-19 vaccination and negative COVID-19 test (required to enter the Galápagos at the time of our trip)
- Purchase Galápagos Transit Control Cards, $20 per person cash only.
Upon arrival in the Galápagos you are required to pay the National Park fee of $100 per person, cash only.
Yacht Anahí provided the onboard naturalist guide for the tour. Our guide, Roberto, met us at the airport outside of baggage claim and directed us from there. Easy!
After our tour, Yacht Anahí returned us back to the airport in Baltra. From there we flew back to Guayaquil. We had a 13-hour layover in GYE before our 2am flight back to the US so we chose to book a room at the Holiday Inn Guayaquil Airport. This hotel is conveniently located next to the airport, offers shuttle service to/from the airport, and includes a bar, restaurant, and swimming pool. This was a good choice for us to rest and shower before our overnight flight home.
Facts and Tips for the Galápagos
- Country: Ecuador
- Language: Spanish. Employees at hotels, the airport, and many restaurants also speak English. Our Naturalist Guide provide all information in both Spanish and English.
- Currency: US dollar
- Electric outlets: Same as US, no adapter required
- Time zones: Guayaquil same as EST, the Galápagos same as CST
- Galápagos Transit Control Card: $20 cash only; purchase at GYE airport
- Galápagos National Park entrance fee: $100 cash only; purchase at GPS airport in Galápagos
- Transportation GYE to/from Grand Hotel Guayaquil: taxi about $8 each way
- Transportation GYE to/from Holiday Inn Guayaquil: Hotel shuttle included with stay
- What to pack
- 50+ Sunscreen – the sun is very intense here, bring extra
- Sunglasses
- Hat or baseball cap
- Sturdy-soled sneakers or hiking shoes
- Sturdy-soled sandals like Keens or Tevas
- Flipflops
- Swimwear
- T-shirts
- Shorts
- Light-weight long sleeved shirt
- Windbreaker
- Long pants and sweatshirt/pullover for cool evenings
- Water bottle
- Insect repellant
- Camera
- Binoculars
- Cash for Transit Control Card, National Park entrance fee, Tips, Wet suit rental, taxis and sundries in Guayaquil
Links
Yacht Anahí – we booked the B1 8-day cruise itinerary
Travel Diary 1/7/2022 Friday 9:30a CST
‘Yesterday! It was the best day of the trip! After breakfast we took a panga ride to Sombrero Chino Island. We took a walk along the white sand beach: coral and lava. The color of black lava, white sand, and beautiful blue water was striking. We saw tons of sea lions including a baby just 1-2 weeks old; also pelicans, marine iguanas, crabs. After the walk we put on wetsuits and snorkeled along the coast of Bartolome. The water was astonishingly clear! We saw sharks, rays, puffer fish, parrots fish, star fish, jelly fish. Afterwards we went back to the boat for lunch and a siesta.
During our siesta the captain started navigation along Bartolome Island. After navigation we took pangas to Bartolome. In the cove we saw penguins including 2 babies! After we disembarked on the island, we climbed 365 steps to the top. At the top were 2 juvenile hawks. Wow! We were so close to them! It was an amazing opportunity. Such beautiful birds!
Back down the steps and back on board, we grabbed some beers and settled in for the navigation to North Seymour. During the navigation, suddenly dozens of dolphins came from everywhere to swim along the boat! It was an incredible sight! Everyone was so excited!’
